UK's Sunday Times says to avoid Key West

Here's the direct quote from last weekend's Sunday Times about Key West - the UK's largest selling Sunday newspaper, selling millions of copies every Sunday:

'Some of the islands are best avoided - Key West, especially, is a commercialised, overcrowded disappointment - but others are simply splendid.'

The author - Chris Haslam - then goes on to nominate Hawk's Cay Resort on Duck Key as the best location for families in the Keys. 

I'd love to tell you the Sunday Times is not influential in the UK, but it is - so this is a bad, really bad, review for Key West.

I know, I know... the author has totally missed the point about Key West. He needs to look beyond the commercialism to the history, heritage, bars, the the people of Key West.  I wonder if he's ever visited and, if so, how many times? So KW might, maybe, not be Florida's #1 destination for families, but please remember that there's more to life than families. Big time.

More broadly, this raises issues for the Tourist Development Council and all the other tourist associations, chambers of commerce, business guilds that promote Key West.  What is the strategy to gain greater positive sentiment from international and domestic journalists for Key West?  And avoid this poor coverage?


On the bright side, I saw that Key West was one of only 16 global destinations (the full list is: Amsterdam, Barcelona, Berlin, Chicago, London, Los Angeles, New Orleans, New York City, Palm Springs, Paris, Provincetown, Puerto Vallarta, Miami, Key West, Fort Lauderdale and Toronto) to get its only Expedia Gay Guide.


I am having problems accessing the guide because of Expedia's stupid site (cookies won't allow me in to view the US site, so it defaults me to a UK view which won't show the gay US sites I want to see).

But it looks like the Expedia site recommends  KW for it's 'quirky vibe.'

Here's some more direct stuff  from the Expedia guide:

While clubs are fewer, Key West can be quite rowdy! Try afternoon tea dances at La Te Da hotel. At night, hit Duval Street’s Bourbon Street Complex. [their exclamation mark, not mine - are they serious?!!]

From pirate museums to the Hemingway House, absorb the culture of Key West.


Which is perfect.  Shame the UK Sunday Times guy couldn't be bothered to see that!

Top 11 things to do for a first time visit to Key West

If this is your first time to Key West or you are fresh off the boat, here are my recommendations for the very best things to do in Key West.  The definitive Key West tourist list....And yes, they are in order, best first.

#1 - Key West Historic Seaport easy wander

Straight in at number 1, even better than walking Duval Street.  If I only had half an hour in Key West this really is what I'd do first.  When I stay in Key West I try to do this every single day because it's so uplifting.


From the northern end of Greene and then all the way along the marina front.

If you hadn't noticed, Key West is all about the ocean!  So this 15 minute walk is essential, fascinating and hectic - there is lots of activity going on..... so, don't miss.....

Peppers of Key West, Kermit's Key West Lime Shoppe and Kermit himself always standing outside his shop (barge him out the way and go in); the famous and massive Wyland mural on the wall; the Turtle Cannery Museum; the pelicans, especially when it's feeding time; Flagler Station and museum of the overseas railroad (totally fascinating).

#2 - Do the Duval crawl
Get a beer, because it's probably hot and walk along Duval Street.  It's not the nicest or most impressive street in town but  it's the unmissable Party Street.

From Gulf (the port) to Atlantic check out:

First 2 blocks are trashy T-shirt and tourist joints.  Stick with it.  At the intersection with Greene St. you come across Sloppy Joe's.  Institution.  Have a good look in.

Pose for the Duval Street live web cam and phone your friends to get them to watch you live. Keep on walking a few blocks....









500 block (Fleming on the left, Starbucks on the right).

Go into Fast Buck Freddie's for a taste of the quaint and strange.
Key West's department store which illustrates how life is different here on Key West.

Next door is Jimmy Buffet's Margaritaville.  The first and the original.  Go in, have one on the rocks (It's 5 O'Clock Somewhere, right?), or at least buy a mandatory t-shirt and mug from the shop next door.... it'll remind you of the heat when you are freezing your butt off next winter at home.

Once you hit the 700/800 block and the the gay bars, that's about it. Unless you are energetic and want to go as far as the Southernmost Point all the way at the end of Duval (another 15 mins walk).


#3 - Key West Conch tour train

The Conch train is well worth doing.  It's expensive but really worth it.  Honestly.  In 1.5 hours you learn loads about the history of Key West and the guides and script are excellent.  Stick to the train tour, I would not recommend the trolley tour - the train's more fun!

#4 - Sunset up La Concha hotel

Yes, it's only a Crowne Plaza from the outside and, yes, it's only 7 floors up, and yes, I'd never actually stay there but....


This 1926 landmark is the tallest building in Key West and the sunsets from the top are fantastic.  Much better, more intimate, and peaceful than the horrendous Sunset Celebration at the more famous Mallory Square, which I would avoid like the plague.  Once is too often at Mallory Square.  Avoid the crowds, go up La Concha.  As well as 360 degree views, there is a bar at the top.

#5 -  Take time to Eat

There are some true gems in Key West.

Go to Sarabeth's (and eat outside), or Antonia's, or La Trattoria (pausing first in the martini bar which has an addictive goldfish bowl view on Duval and all it's goings on).  For veggies, check out The Cafe, A Mostly Vegetarian Place (don't mock, it's TripAdvisor's number 6 restaurant in KW, out of 215!; it's great).

#6 - Eat unique... Blue Heaven

Just for the food but mainly the totally unique experience go to Key West's most famous restaurant, Blue Heaven.  Most tables are outside, amongst the trees and the cats and the hens.  Lots of fantastic live music.  Breakfasts are institutions, especially Sunday.  Try the Key Lime Pie martini.  You gotta go. Don't dress up, what ever you do.

#7 - Do drag

Go to a drag show on gay block, Duval.  I'd recommend Aqua.  The show is for everyone.  It's a scream and very funny. If you are lucky Inga will be in town and in charge of the show.  She is amazing - hilarious and frightening at the same time.

#8 - Museums etc

I love this stuff but it's not for all tastes so I'll list my favouties, in order, from the best to the plain good (I've left off the crappy ones so don't worry they are all good). I've indicated if they are more suited for adults or kids.

Key West Museum of Art and History at the Custom House (adults only) -

Mario Sanchez - view up Duval Street from the Gulf

Key West's most famous artist, Mario Sanchez, and many of his works plus a general history and lots of great models of boats, liners, ships associated with Key West plus loads of other stuff in a historic building

Key West Ship Wreck Museum - (great for kids and adults alike) - actors do their bit to bring this essential bit of KW history to life.  Plus great views from the lookout tower.


Mel Fisher Maritime Heritage Museum.  (all) Mel Fisher, undersea treasure hunter. 15 years the hunter and optimist ('Today's the Day') in Key West.  His luckiest day July 20, 1985.  Hit gold.  Literally, by finally finding the sunken Spanish ship Atocha which sank September 6, 1622.  No one had touched those gold bars in 363 years and they were now worth $450m.  More incredible than the worth is the story.

Mel Fisher said, and believed this, every single day for 15 years.

Audubon House and Gardens - (adults only) famous American artist and the house he lived in in KW. Amazing courtyard garden.

Contrary to what this looks like, I am enjoying myself at the KW lighthouse.

Key West light house and museum. (mainly adults)

Built in 1847.   I love lighthouses and this place rocks. 

Yes, you can go up the main tower and see the views from the top.











#9 - Nancy Forrester's Secret Garden

Bang in the middle of Key West Old Town.  Very near Sarabeth's restaurant - you'll almost certainly miss the tiny side street so go ask the well dressed man in shorts who's standing outside Sarabeth's (David, the owner) the way. 

I try to understand the fascination of this place. Maybe it's no more complex than it's calm, an oasis, a place to get lost amongst the dense 'jungle'. Or maybe it's the rescue parrots inside being cheeky.

#10 - Fort Zac Taylor State Park

A bit off the beaten track, but if you are here for a bit, then well worth a visit.  The best beach in Key West by far and the old fort itself is pretty interesting too.









#11 - Be a right old 'local tourist'

For the dedicated, some bit and bobs for those who want to dig a little deeper.....

Key West Island books on Fleming - wonderful 'old skool' book shop with loads of local book interest

Fausto's Food Palace - KW's supermarket.  Again on Fleming. 

Veggie Cafe
Louise's backyard restaurant and bar
FantasyFest in October
Parrot Head's Meeting of the Minds in November
White Street pier
East Martello Tower and museum - really excellent - up by the aiport, check it out after you have checked in
Tropical Forest and Botanical Garden - this is great - the only reason it did not get a full mention is because it's a little out of town - just outside the city limits
The drive from Miami and back up the Keys - 160 miles to Miami, including the 106.5MM and the 36 bridges - classic and unforgetable drive
The KW Aquarium

The famous pirates, Presidents, artists, writers and drag queens who have lived in KW.
Key Lime Pie
Key Lime Pie Martini
Key Deer
Beautiful trees and plants of Key West Old Town

Yep, this is real and in Key West. (Shaving Brush Tree)

Of course, you'll explore and find your own stuff so enjoy!